spring sewing: the other things

Hi! I'm back from New York! We've had a great time - eaten and drunk far too much, caught up with friends, seen Come From Away which was phenomenal, rode on a strange light-up fish carousel thing, all the usual NYC stuff. I've now finally recovered from my jet lag and crammed enough vegetables into my body to calm it down a bit (is it a general thing for American restaurants not to serve veg with anything or were we just spectacularly unlucky?) and I'm ready to start thinking about sewing again. My summer sewing plan isn't finished yet due to a chronic lack of fabric (no, seriously) but I hope to have rectified that by next week. 

For your amusement, here are a bunch of things I don't have enough to say about to warrant a post of their own! Some of these are from my spring sewing plan, some of them I just made because I could. This will wrap up everything I intended to make except Simplicity 8424 (which will get its own post) and the trousers (I've made a couple of pairs but I'd like to do some more work there before I post about it).

Aqua Named Kielo

This is probably my least successful Kielo and I'm not entirely sure why. Maybe the fabric is too thin? It looks odd wrapped in the front the way I normally wear them and I much prefer the look of it wrapped in the back like this, but I'm not really comfortable actually wearing it that way because it's so clingy. This one is on probation right now.


Goth dress

I bought this fabric to cheer myself up and to indulge Teen Goth Jen. This is an Anna/half circle skirt and I completely hate it, so much so that I got rid of it a week later. It's just not me in the slightest; even taking a few photos in my back garden I felt deeply uncomfortable wearing this. Teen Goth Jen will have to find another way to feel her oats, and having been reminded that I do actually like red, I will have to make myself another red dress in a style that fits Current Jen better.

Stripy Wanted T-shirt

I really love this, but much to my confusion it doesn't seem to go with anything else I own. I'm going to try and work out why this is so I can find a way to fit it into my wardrobe.

(Also we took this photo in the grounds of our hotel in Seville a few months ago and that place was so beautiful it almost makes me angry.)

Kwik Sew harem trousers

This was an attempt at exercise/loungewear. I like them in theory, but they are WAY too big. I fell between sizes and the pattern tissue told me in no uncertain terms that I was not permitted to cut between sizes or blend between them, without explaining why, which I found kind of weird. In case there was some sizing danger I wasn't aware of, I played it safe, cut the larger size and found that they nearly fell off. (Also it only includes a 6mm seam allowance, which seems weird for something with this much gathering?) I will have another go, but I'll probably size down twice. All of this has left me not hugely enthused about future Kwik Sew patterns, if I'm honest.

Also in the above photo I'm wearing a Simplicity 1716 cowl neck top. I've actually made three of these (one of which was a Christmas present) but I've never blogged them because I cannot find anything to wear them with. This seems to be a running theme with me and tops and I need to work out what that's about.

Up next: my summer sewing plan and my trip to Mood!

spring sewing: stripy Jalie hoodie and a birthday present

A few months ago, I was suddenly hit by a very strong desire to own a cropped stripy hoodie. This was partly because I'd bought some really lovely stripy ponte without a clear idea of what to do with it, partly because I literally never make jumpers I can layer over things and so always end up in old RTW when it's cold, and partly that I'd just made Patrick's hoodie and had hoodie envy.

I didn't want raglan sleeves, so rather than alter the Burda pattern I used for Patrick's, I went looking for another. There is apparently no such thing as a crop length hoodie in the sewing pattern world, unless you count that one Mimi G pattern that's literally just a hood and some sleeves, and standard hoodie patterns are all much of a muchness, really. I dithered over it for some time and finally bought the Jalie unisex hoodie pattern, mostly because I was looking to make a birthday present for my father at that time and it seemed to make sense to get a pattern that could do both.

As it was left to me to decide what "cropped" means, I made it a bit shorter than full length then stood in front of the mirror pinning the hem in various places to get it to hit the right point on my waist. I wanted a loose silhouette but still have the shape of my waist be visible, so that this has a chance of being part of my everyday wardrobe and not just something I shove on to slob around the house in. Overall I ended up taking six inches off the original pattern, and I think this is about right. My smallest point is still covered here, but I have a super-short torso and if I'd taken the hem up any higher the proportion of the hoodie itself would have been thrown off.

I left off the kangaroo pocket. I had the options of "cropped at the right place", "kangaroo pocket", and "not having really weird pocket boobs" and could only pick two out of three. I also just hemmed the hoodie with a twin needle rather than putting bands on; I didn't want a hem band for previously mentioned proportion reasons and decided it would be more cohesive to leave them off the sleeves as well. This does make the sleeves a tiny bit short but that doesn't really bother me.

The neckline and hood on the Burda pattern are much better than this one. The neckline is SUPER small and I'm not a fan of that at all. The hood also doesn't have a drawstring and eyelets, which I would have preferred (I know I could easily have added them, but I didn't realise it until I'd attached the hood to the neck). On the version I made for my dad, which was a regular jumper and not a hoodie, I ended up cutting out the neck binding entirely after my first attempt because the neck was so small. Cutting it out made it slightly too big, so I think I'd have to be careful how I altered it in future. He seems fine with it, though.

 (Dad is not a model. I stopped after four photos because his face literally wasn't moving and I was getting worried. He's very pleased with it, though.)

I will definitely make this again. When it gets colder I'll probably make another one for myself, and I'll try and mash it up with the Burda hoodie to get the neckline and hood style I prefer. I'll also almost certainly use it again as a default "promised I would make this person a jumper" pattern, though still with a modified neck because it is SUPER small and few people want that. I'm definitely down to try more Jalie patterns after this - some of their activewear stuff in particular looks fantastic. Yay good pattern companies!

Intense staring off into middle distance while dramatically popping a hood!

Spring sewing: ALL the jumpsuits!

(Who's got two thumbs and forgot to schedule their post then spent three days wondering why it didn't have any views? This girl!) 

Much to my surprise, my sewjo has come roaring back and I've managed a first attempt at all three jumpsuits! I've got tons done over the last few weeks and most of my spring sewing is finished, though that doesn't amount to as many posts as you'd think as there have been a LOT of wadders. Partly due to new patterns not working for me, partly due to fabric issues, slightly due my tastes having changed, and as always, a good dollop due to incompetence.

The first jumpsuit I tried was New Look 6468, which I loved the idea of, but it looked absolutely horrendous on me. It was a special level of hideous not often achieved. The sleeves were too small round the bicep (I ended up removing them entirely), the neckline was weird, and the top was so blousy that even an elastic waist couldn't give me any definition at all. It was so bad that when the charity donation van came by the next day I threw it straight in the bag. About a week later I realised I should have got a picture anyway, but hindsight. I still really like the idea of a lace-up jumpsuit, but I won't be making this one again; I probably could get it looking slightly nicer with nineteen or so alterations, but I don't wanna. Also one of the diagrams instructs you to sew the underlap on upside down. I'm sure I'll be able to alter something else to get the look I'm going for.

Onwards to better things! Jumpsuit number two:

This is McCalls 7632, and I was certain I was going to hate it. Actually, I was certain I was going to hate everything I made out of this lightweight viscose and I was sad, because I liked it. Turns out everything I made from it worked pretty well so now I'm worried I'm going to get sick of it. The pattern envelope recommends more structured fabrics than this, so I was worried about that, I was worried about the fit, and most of all I was worried I'd produce something that actually looked like the sample garment.

This jumpsuit is definitely meant to be more fitted than I've made it, and I'm not sure where the fault lies for that. For some reason I seem to need a bigger size in jumpsuits than I do in tops, dresses or trousers, so I was playing it cautious with the sizing to begin with, but I also think it's grown since I made it. You can see in the back shot above that the fabric is distorted on one side - it does that super easily. I had to retie that knot a few times and the fabric did not like it at all. There are benefits to it being this oversized, though - I first wore it on a bank holiday Monday when the temperature got up to 28 degrees (which for a Londoner is incomprehensibly warm) and because it's loose and flowy and drapey I managed to stay pretty cool and comfortable all day. I don't know what size I'd make if I attempted this one again.

It's an incredibly simple project. It's only got four pattern pieces and since the shoulders are just tied together there's much less fitting than there ordinarily would be. The bodice is lined, but again that's very simple to do. It's easy enough to knock out in a few hours.

I LOVE the shape of the trousers. This is the exact kind of swishy wide-leg awesomeness I was looking for. I am definitely going to see if I can use this pattern for a pair of stand-alone trousers, and also for grafting onto bodices I like. I'm less sold on the top - it's nice, and the ties certainly make it easier to keep the back from drooping, but having giant knots at the shoulders limits your layering options somewhat. I'm not opposed to trying it again, but I'm not in love with it either.

For any future versions, I would probably put slash pockets in at the waist and either size down at the waist or add a sash belt. I still might make one for this version if I have enough scraps left over. There's also a tiny part of my brain telling me to make the one-shoulder version with the ruffle, and I cannot work out why. I hate clothes that require specialist undergarments, and I'm really not a fan of ruffles either. Maybe I just like the idea of a dark summer floral, as they've drawn for that view? I don't know. Don't make ruffled one-shoulder jumpsuits, Jen.

Jumpsuit the third:

This is Simplicity 1355, which I got free with a magazine. I almost never buy sewing magazines unless they have at least two patterns I'm interested in (one pattern if the magazine is cheaper than six quid), but last month was just such a month. This one has an elastic waist, side seam pockets and a low crossover back. 

I almost didn't make this at all after the failure of the New Look one, which was also an elasticated waist and looked like ass. But I'd said three, and I had the fabric for three, and so I was going to make three jumpsuits, dammit. I'm glad I did because this one works much better, probably the best version of the three. It fits closer to my waist than the McCalls jumpsuit (without me having to size down and make it form-fitting) but is much less blousy than the New Look pattern, so it doesn't take me to Frump Central. Currently this is the number one candidate for "wandering around NYC jumpsuit". 

There is, however, this issue:

So as far as I could see, the pattern does not instruct you to attach these two crossover back panels to each other in any way. That possibly works if your back is broader than mine, but when I first put this on both panels just flopped down to my waist. I've seen lots of very nice backless jumpsuits, but they are not for me due to previously mentioned dislike of specialist undergarments. I hand-stitched the panels together at the crossover point, which holds them up, but I'm thinking I might need to go back in and fudge that crossover point to be an inch or so higher. I'm not generally that bothered about bra straps showing, but for aesthetic and comfort reasons I'd rather my bra fastenings weren't making friends with strangers on the tube. 

Assuming I can work this out to my satisfaction, I am definitely up for making another version of this. It's extra comfy but still cute and I think it'll be a real workhorse in the summer. This was the pattern I was least excited about, so I'm really pleased it's turned out so well. I like to have my expectations confounded every now and then. 

In conclusion: Jumpsuits! Woop!

sewing plans: spring 2018

Planning! I was considering skipping a seasonal plan this time round to see if going with the flow would work better for me, but it turns out that no, it doesn't. It just leaves me with a ton of ideas and no clue where to start. Here are the things I'm thinking of making, sorted into their various categories.

Holiday Wardrobe

Patrick and I have booked a trip to New York at the beginning of June. Ostensibly we're going to visit friends, but by what is definitely a coincidence NYC also holds a ton of stuff we get very excited about (him: fancy dining and art galleries; me: dancing and fabric shopping; both of us: booze). I've been to New York once before, but it was before I started sewing (and also was with a friend who didn't budget for seeing anything or doing anything, and spent a full eighteen hours of the trip not speaking to me because I insisted we go for a proper meal instead of surviving off breadsticks from the 7/11), so I am determined to pay a visit to Mood. Since I cannot imagine a world in which I go to Mood and don't want to buy anything, I need to pack lightly to leave space for my future hypothetical fabric. I'm not going to make an entire wardrobe for this trip but there are a few gaps I can think of:

A jumpsuit or two. I think jumpsuits will be perfect for day-to-day wandering around and hitting up bars, and I bought a few patterns last month. They're all different styles of woven jumpsuit, and one of them is the most hilariously ugly sample garment I've seen in a while:

What IS this shiny green one-shouldered culotted monstrosity? I swear I can hear the static ripping when I look at this picture. Why would you force another human being into that thing, and why wouldn't somebody stop you? EESH. Despite the Jolly Green Giant getup, I bought the pattern because the two-shouldered version with full-length trousers could be very nice. This one is dressier than the other two, but ideally I'd like to make wearable toiles of all three. Possibly a tall order, and I might not get that far, but in my head at the moment that's the plan. 

A pair of trousers. I talked about wanting a pair of swishy high-waisted trousers in my dream projects post, and lately I've been shooting my wardrobe really dirty looks because those trousers don't exist yet. The time is right. I still don't know what pattern to use - I can't find anything that looks exactly right. If the jumpsuit above works well I might knock together a waistband and use the trousers from that. 

A Wanted top. I don't have a lot of T-shirts, so a short-sleeved Wanted top that works with a denim skirt and whatever the above trousers turn out to be would be just the thing.

A fancy-ass dress. I don't know yet whether I need to make anything new for this (my weight has been all over the place and I have no idea what currently fits me), but since New York restaurant dress codes seem to be stricter than London ones, I will need something I can wear to whatever swanky dinner Patrick decides we're going to. 

Workout Gear

For the past five years my only form of exercise, when I have exercised at all, has been partnered dance classes and socials where everyone rocks up in their regular clothes, so I've never needed activewear. However, in a bid to get fitter and remind myself that I actually really love dancing, I'm currently signed up to a couple of more intense street dance-type classes (the thigh burn, OH GOD THE THIGH BURN). We record ourselves at the end of each class, and I'm kind of over watching videos of myself wearing the few pieces of ancient ratty RTW that I haven't thrown out yet. I only want a couple of things for now, so this is what I'm starting with:

Simplicity 8424. I've made a start on the vest top and wrap top already, and if I can find a suitable fabric I want to try the leggings as well. They'll be the full length ones - I like the look of the calf length ones with the ties, but if you think I'm going to wax my legs just so that I can look slightly fancier when I exercise then you've got another think coming.

A few T-shirts. This is tricky because I need to get the amount of ease right. I don't like doing dance classes in baggy clothes because it obscures my body positioning and makes it hard to tell if I'm doing the moves right, but if everything I'm wearing is skintight I get self-conscious and end up not committing to the dance properly. So this will probably take a bit of experimenting with style and ease and length. I'm going to try the Named Selja T-shirt, and I'm in the market for one or two other patterns as well.

This Would Be Cool But I Haven't Thought It Through Yet

A cropped stripy hoodie. I have never been remotely interested in owning a hoodie, but I have some really nice stripy ponte in my stash that's suddenly insisting on being made into one. Now that I've had the idea I really want it, but I'm aware that if the finished garment is even slightly wrong then I'm going to hate it. I don't have a pattern yet and will probably need to make a toile before I cut into my good fabric.

A Goth dress. Last month Teen Goth Jen insisted on buying some bright red tartan stretch cotton from Fabric Land, and since the only way to de-Gothify it would be to make weird Rupert the Bear trousers, I'm going to lean into it. My initial thought was to make another Anna/Hollyburn mash-up, but I've managed to lose both the Hollyburn pocket piece and my altered Anna bodice. I printed out the bodice and altered it again, but it doesn't look the same for some reason, so I need to toile that and try to reverse engineer the Hollyburn pocket. These are both really annoying jobs, so I might well end up making something else entirely.

This isn't everything I've got in mind, but even this much is a pretty tall order (and almost certainly won't all get done), so I'm going to leave it here for now. If anyone who knows NYC has any fabric shopping/eating/drinking recommendations, please do let me know!

(This was not as quick and dirty a post as I'd anticipated. Oops.)