Spring sewing: ALL the jumpsuits!

(Who's got two thumbs and forgot to schedule their post then spent three days wondering why it didn't have any views? This girl!) 

Much to my surprise, my sewjo has come roaring back and I've managed a first attempt at all three jumpsuits! I've got tons done over the last few weeks and most of my spring sewing is finished, though that doesn't amount to as many posts as you'd think as there have been a LOT of wadders. Partly due to new patterns not working for me, partly due to fabric issues, slightly due my tastes having changed, and as always, a good dollop due to incompetence.

The first jumpsuit I tried was New Look 6468, which I loved the idea of, but it looked absolutely horrendous on me. It was a special level of hideous not often achieved. The sleeves were too small round the bicep (I ended up removing them entirely), the neckline was weird, and the top was so blousy that even an elastic waist couldn't give me any definition at all. It was so bad that when the charity donation van came by the next day I threw it straight in the bag. About a week later I realised I should have got a picture anyway, but hindsight. I still really like the idea of a lace-up jumpsuit, but I won't be making this one again; I probably could get it looking slightly nicer with nineteen or so alterations, but I don't wanna. Also one of the diagrams instructs you to sew the underlap on upside down. I'm sure I'll be able to alter something else to get the look I'm going for.

Onwards to better things! Jumpsuit number two:

This is McCalls 7632, and I was certain I was going to hate it. Actually, I was certain I was going to hate everything I made out of this lightweight viscose and I was sad, because I liked it. Turns out everything I made from it worked pretty well so now I'm worried I'm going to get sick of it. The pattern envelope recommends more structured fabrics than this, so I was worried about that, I was worried about the fit, and most of all I was worried I'd produce something that actually looked like the sample garment.

This jumpsuit is definitely meant to be more fitted than I've made it, and I'm not sure where the fault lies for that. For some reason I seem to need a bigger size in jumpsuits than I do in tops, dresses or trousers, so I was playing it cautious with the sizing to begin with, but I also think it's grown since I made it. You can see in the back shot above that the fabric is distorted on one side - it does that super easily. I had to retie that knot a few times and the fabric did not like it at all. There are benefits to it being this oversized, though - I first wore it on a bank holiday Monday when the temperature got up to 28 degrees (which for a Londoner is incomprehensibly warm) and because it's loose and flowy and drapey I managed to stay pretty cool and comfortable all day. I don't know what size I'd make if I attempted this one again.

It's an incredibly simple project. It's only got four pattern pieces and since the shoulders are just tied together there's much less fitting than there ordinarily would be. The bodice is lined, but again that's very simple to do. It's easy enough to knock out in a few hours.

I LOVE the shape of the trousers. This is the exact kind of swishy wide-leg awesomeness I was looking for. I am definitely going to see if I can use this pattern for a pair of stand-alone trousers, and also for grafting onto bodices I like. I'm less sold on the top - it's nice, and the ties certainly make it easier to keep the back from drooping, but having giant knots at the shoulders limits your layering options somewhat. I'm not opposed to trying it again, but I'm not in love with it either.

For any future versions, I would probably put slash pockets in at the waist and either size down at the waist or add a sash belt. I still might make one for this version if I have enough scraps left over. There's also a tiny part of my brain telling me to make the one-shoulder version with the ruffle, and I cannot work out why. I hate clothes that require specialist undergarments, and I'm really not a fan of ruffles either. Maybe I just like the idea of a dark summer floral, as they've drawn for that view? I don't know. Don't make ruffled one-shoulder jumpsuits, Jen.

Jumpsuit the third:

This is Simplicity 1355, which I got free with a magazine. I almost never buy sewing magazines unless they have at least two patterns I'm interested in (one pattern if the magazine is cheaper than six quid), but last month was just such a month. This one has an elastic waist, side seam pockets and a low crossover back. 

I almost didn't make this at all after the failure of the New Look one, which was also an elasticated waist and looked like ass. But I'd said three, and I had the fabric for three, and so I was going to make three jumpsuits, dammit. I'm glad I did because this one works much better, probably the best version of the three. It fits closer to my waist than the McCalls jumpsuit (without me having to size down and make it form-fitting) but is much less blousy than the New Look pattern, so it doesn't take me to Frump Central. Currently this is the number one candidate for "wandering around NYC jumpsuit". 

There is, however, this issue:

So as far as I could see, the pattern does not instruct you to attach these two crossover back panels to each other in any way. That possibly works if your back is broader than mine, but when I first put this on both panels just flopped down to my waist. I've seen lots of very nice backless jumpsuits, but they are not for me due to previously mentioned dislike of specialist undergarments. I hand-stitched the panels together at the crossover point, which holds them up, but I'm thinking I might need to go back in and fudge that crossover point to be an inch or so higher. I'm not generally that bothered about bra straps showing, but for aesthetic and comfort reasons I'd rather my bra fastenings weren't making friends with strangers on the tube. 

Assuming I can work this out to my satisfaction, I am definitely up for making another version of this. It's extra comfy but still cute and I think it'll be a real workhorse in the summer. This was the pattern I was least excited about, so I'm really pleased it's turned out so well. I like to have my expectations confounded every now and then. 

In conclusion: Jumpsuits! Woop!